Thailand



Sunday, 7 January, 2001:
HAT-YAI, THAILAND (South)

So I'm extremely behind in keeping this page up to date, and I'm sorry! Here's an update for the last few weeks of Spain:

After Santiago de Compostela, I went all the way south accross the country, to the town of Granada. Granada is a big city, and not the most attractive except for its majestic Alhambra, the old Moorish royal palace. I met a really nice girl named Alex (from Texas) who went to see the palace with me. I think I got more out of it with someone else; there are so many intricate details that you need four eyes to see what there is!

Most of the palace complex is taken up by the Generalife (pron. "Heneral-eefeh"), the royal gardens. In here, water is used as art, and you can't escape the sound of running and splashing water anywhere. It really makes it peaceful, and drowns out the noise of cars! I loved the "Water Staircase", a long stone staircase with water flowing through channels down the stone bannisters. When you stand half-way up, you realize that you are completely surrounded by the chuckle of the water. You just feel engulfed by the peace there.

The Alhambra is really an engulfing experience. When you're there, you get lost very easily in the moment. We sat on a park bench for over an hour, just listening to the water. It's interesting that, when I was writing in my journal that night, I had a hard time recalling details of the place; I guess I was so engulfed in the moment that I forgot to remember. It's a strange feeling to describe.

The main palace (Palacio de Navaries) was just as impressive, in a different way. It seemed every wall was completely covered in Arabic script and snaking stone carving that weaves in and out of itself, in a style similar to Celtic design. In here too, there is lots of water, as well as courtyards with beautiful, simple pillars topped by cave-like carved roofs. Alex and I envisioned ancient Muslim women carrying baskets of fruit through this very courtyard, or stopping to enjoy the serenity on a hot day. Because Muslims can't have images on display, they turned their creative talents to the beautiful wall-carving. I love how complex and intricate it is, and yet it is so simple in appearance. I thought it was like an attempt to extend the mystery of nature (Allah) onto a human building, not out of competition but out of respect and worship. Like nature, it strikes a balance between the seeming paradox of complexity and simplicity, in the same way that an ecosystem is both incredibly complex and elegantly simple at the same time. There is no need to resolve this paradox. The mystery is enough.

For Christmas, I went to Canillas de Albaida (near Malaga) to meet Ginia and her sister, Kristy. I was worried that Christmas would be a disappointment without family. That just meant that we put extra effort into decorating and getting into the holiday spirit. We even had a Christmas "branch", decorated with shreds of toilet paper and coloured clothes pins, and with a red tangerine mesh bag tied in a bow at the top. Okay, so it sounds tacky... But really, it looked good from a distance, although somewhat Charlie Brown-ish in size and crookedness. Ginia bought a Flamenco Christmas album, and we also listened to carols on the radio by candle-light (lots and lots of candles). They made a Christmas Eve pasta casserole, and the next night I made a huge chicken curry with tonnes and tonnes of vegetables; it was delicious. In the end, we had a really special time.

At 1:30 in the morning, I went carolling with about a hundred of the locals, who had just finished midnight mass. What a crowd: three Santa Clauses, a Catholic priest in full black robes, a large band of guitars, mandolins, an accordion, and lots of tambourines, drums, and, of course, voices. We went from house to house, and all hundred people actually went inside each house, where tables were set out with drinks and food. Everyone was hospitable, and we all sang Spanish carols. I left after an hour and a half (very tired and full of food!), but they told me they would continue until 8 am!!!



THAILAND:

We arrived in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, yesterday after a very long flight from London, where we had spent five days after New Years. We were struck by the heat and humidity. I found it hard to breathe because the air was so thick with moisture. And after being in cold climates for so long (central Greece, N. Ireland, UK, and northern Spain), it was a (pleasant) shock!

We caught a 12-hour train north to Thailand. On the train were the most beautiful children (brother and sister) I have ever seen. They didn't speak English, but kept running over and offering us candy. I drew them a picture of the world with Canada and Malaysia highlighted, and stick-figure drawings of us three with our names. They were so excited about it, and ran off to their seats to show the other kids they were with! The young girl came over and told us the names of all the objects we had in Malaysian. It was really cute.

People in Thailand are so friendly and warm. They always seem to smile and laugh, because of the central philosophies of Sanuk (fun, which is injected into even the most back-breaking labour), and "Face", or the need to prevent embarrassment of others (for instance, if I fall flat on my face in the street, I am told that all the locals with laugh in order to save me embarrassment, though to us it seems like mockery!)

It's raining really really hard out now. When outside, the water just pounds down on you, and feels like it gets more and more intense every moment. The locals seem to stand alone in doorways and just watch the rain in the dark. I think I'm going to try it, it looks really relaxing. I love the sound of rain; it's very soothing.

To end for today, I should express my love for the washrooms here. Ingenious! The toilet (read: "hole in floor") is elevated on a pedestal; the shower is inserted next to the sink, and you just stand there while the whole washroom fills up with soapy water; the sink simply empties onto the floor. It's like an auto-cleaning washroom!



Tuesday, 16 January, 2001:
KRABI, THAILAND (South)

We arrived in the provincial capital, Krabi, a week ago. It has a wonderful little night market, where locals set up tiny stalls and tables by the roadside. The food here is some of the best I've ever had. My family eats Thai food, but there are tastes here I have never tasted before.

Last Wednesday, we attended a ceremony to prepare for the upcoming Chinese New Year. There are a lot of Chinese people in Krabi. The ceremony was like nothing I have ever seen before and probably will ever see again. There was a large tent set up, in which there were tables full of food-offerings and incense, a large drum band with one big, low drum keeping an entrancing beat, and about ten young men getting fanned with a black flag. One by one they got up and danced outside with a flaming paper, cracking a whip as they danced. Then they climbed a ladder one by one, which was swung back and forth. Some of the men shook the ladder as if in a rage. The next part of the ceremony was fairly gruesome and I had to leave early because I nearly threw up. A table of torture instruments was brought out, and each young man took one and started hacking at their tongue with it; there were mostly swords and knives, as well as one saw and a ball with spikes. Their chests soon speckled with blood-drops, but they kept going. After this, they went to the offering tables and fainted. As the chair with sharp spikes was carried out, I left.

On Friday, we took a boat to the isolated island of Ko Jam. From offshore, you can see no human constructions, only hills, forest and beach. It sends excited tingles up you back to think you are going to a deserted island. The island's forests are a mix of rainforest, palm trees, and rubber plantations. About 3000 Thais live there.

Our boat pulled ashore and it was immediately surrounded by the local Thai girls swimming in the water, having a great time. So great that Allan and I spontaneously decided to jump in fully clothed, for a swim. Floating there in the warm water on a hot day, surrounded by pretty Thai girls, off a nearly empty island... it was so idyllic that it took us a few minutes to realize that we'd forgotten to remove our moneybelts before jumping in.

The money dried out. My passport is still wet after ten days and is making no signs of recovery. The signature washed off our India visas, and all the stamps smudged on our Thai entry visas. The plane tickets were soaked and they, too, are still damp.

We chartered a little fishing boat run by a nice guy named Dayt, and went to Bamboo Island (2 hours away) for a day of snorkelling around coral reefs. The fish were amazing; so many fluorescent colours! They swim so gracefully, like slow-motion birds. Amid the coral, there are so many symbiotic relationships, where species depend on one another to survive, like in the coral itself. I am sad to think that this ecosystem will be destroyed if the ocean temperatures change even a fraction; we have already destroyed so much coral reef with our chemicals and boats... will we destroy the rest with climate change? The codependent coral, and all species that depend on and are depended upon in this ecosystem: they are proof that one must cooperate to survive.

Yesterday, Allan and I embarked on a great adventure: to climb Ko Jam's little mountain, unguided. We walked up through rubber plantations, and then into rainforest. It was very beautiful, although wildlife was scarce except for butterflies. At 3 o'clock, realizing the sun would set at 6:30 p.m., we decided to cut down the side of the mountain to the ocean below. Big mistake. As we descended, the forest got thicker and thicker. Most of the plants had sharp spikes, and before long my pants were drenched in blood from my many thorn-cuts. We got to a point where it was impassable. We got clubs and clubbed our way down, but still got cut by all the thorns. It took a very long time. We were a little worried about camping in the jungle, but morale stayed high and we joked the whole time. We were saved by a banana tree I spotted in the distance: I figured there might be a plantation nearby, which there was, and we walked down to safety, reaching the beach just in time for the sunset.

As we walked barefoot on the smooth, low-tide sand, waves lapping quietly to our right, stars out bright overhead, a thick, sillhouetted line of palm trees to the left, and no sign of humans anywhere nearby, we marvelled at what an incredible adventure we had that day. From hacking desperately through the jungle, to strolling peacefully along the deserted beach: the contrast was amazing. What a fantastic voyage this is!



Wednesday, 17 January, 2001:
KRABI, THAILAND (South)

Today, we went by long-tail boat to the nearby beaches of Rai Leh. Long-tail boats are long, thin wood boats. Their name comes from their motors, which are attached to the end of long metal poles behind the boat. The front (bow) of the boat always has coloured strips of cloth tied around it, apparently to ask favours of sea spirits.

Rai Leh beach is a bit of a tourist trap, but the area is so beautiful it was definitely worth it. The beaches are set among the most amazing limestone cliff formations, called Karsts, which stick straight up like strange white fingers capped with thick green forest. We climbed up one of them, where there is a 'secret' lagoon right in the middle. The lagoon is fed by the ocean, somehow, although you can't see where the water comes in. It is surrounded by beautiful cliffs, at the base of which are caves with wonderful stalactites.

Tomorrow we are going to Khao Sok National Park, home of the world's largest flower, Rafflesia kerri meyer, which we have been told smells like rotten corpse to attract insects. We will be out of touch with the rest of the world (hopefully) for over four days. Bye. (Hope we don't get eaten by tigers!) : )



Wednesday, 24 January, 2001:
SURAT THANI, THAILAND (South)

The last week has been one of the best weeks so far of the trip. When we packed up to leave Khao Sok National Park, north of Phuket Island, this morning, we were shocked to realize that we'd stayed 6 nights. We arrived at a small bungalow operation near the park headquarters last Thursday, called "Jungle Huts." It is run by a Thai family; by the end of our stay we had become quite close to them. The manager, Spider Woman ("Mairng Moom" in Thai) is only 25, and likes to give everyone nicknames. So my new name is "Gra-Tai" (meaning Rabbit, because I am small, she said... at least for a foreigner!). Allan is Snake Man (because of his eyes), and Ginia is Bread (because Allan said she liked bread). Poor Ginia.

Our first day there, we went on an elephant trek through a rubber plantation then through a rainforest stream. Allan and I rode an elephant named "Peeda". Her skin was very wrinkly and loose, and she had sharp bristles on top of her head. She had beautiful eyes that blink from the side; for such a strange animal, her eyes weren't that different from a humans, really.

The next day we did our first hike through the rainforest, to some waterfalls. It was only 5 km, but it took us three hours for several reasons. Firstly, it was uphill and very humid. Secondly, we missed the path at one point and accidentally climbed a steep, muddy slope. And thirdly, much of our 'walking' time was actually spent knocking leeches off our boots. What little buggers they are. They are not like our leeches back home, which just sit in wait for you. These little creatures actually hunt you down, and if you stop and look at the ground you can see the things swinging around, feeling the air for your warmth, and inching speedily towards your legs. We moved a notch down the food chain. Allan got the most points for leeches sucking his blood, and his classic expression at the end of the day was: "I would love to see a leech caught in a spider web. Suck on that you bastard."

We saw the hugest spider just above the trail. Allan walked into the web and couldn't break it, it was so strong. The spider was a Golden Orb Spider. Her body alone was at least 3 inches I think, not even counting her legs, and she had beautiful yellow and black squiggles down her back. Amazing. We had a refreshing swim in a little waterfall pool.

The next day we went to see the famed Rafflesia flower. It is a parasitic plant with no roots or leaves of its own; it invades liana vines on the ground and absorbs all its nutrients from them. Once a year flower buds pop out of the vine's roots and grow to the size of a soccer ball. The flower blooms in spectacular display of colour (mainly red and white); this can reach 80 cm in diametre for this species. It was really impressive, and we got to see all the life-stages of the flower at different locations.

We started meeting lots of really interesting people at Jungle Huts, and a couple nights we stayed up into the early hours of the morning talking and laughing. So many perspectives on so many things, from many different countries.

We did another day hike in the park, and the next day went on a boat tour of the huge reservoir created by a dam over a decade ago. We were a very privileged group, since Jungle Huts had just bought a new long-tail boat the day before, and we were the first to use it. The boat, though used, was newly painted and had brand new coloured spirit ribbons on the bow.

The lake was so beautiful. Despite all the ecological devastation caused by the flooding, it was truly awesome to see. Out of the water rose massive karst cliffs, much higher than the ones we saw before. Some had misty clouds encloaking them, and this was very beautiful. We crossed the lake, and entered a side channel, which narrowed until the sides were close enough to us to see monkeys swinging in the rainforest trees. We stopped for lunch at some peaceful floating raft-bungalows; I ate on the floor of the kitchen with the Thais, just listening to them conversing and occasionally asking them to explain a word. They offered me their curry, but said I wouldn't like it because it was fishy and spicy. Indeed it was, but I had a little anyway and they were most impressed; I didn't eat the whole chicken foot in there, though.

We walked through an 800 m cave, which was really fun. I saw lots of bats (I think they are one of the cutest animals on the planet, with their little twitching heads), and needed to swim through some flooded bits.

I left my sandals behind, so had to return the next day, for free though. They smuggled me into the park as a "guide" so I wouldn't have to buy a new 3 day pass, since we were leaving the next day and it would be a waste. At the end of the day, the Thais all told me that I was an excellent guide. One guy even suggested I come back. I discoved how amazing it is to walk barefoot in the forest, like the locals. You feel so connected to the ground you walk on, and when you get used to it you learn to let your feet do the walking, not your head. The leeches were luckily sleeping that afternoon, although I found one and let it suck on me on purpose, and I now have a new-found respect for the things. They don't hurt, and the little guy cleaned out a wound on my hand. How cute.

Here's a poem I wrote about walking barefoot, and watching the Thais do it:


"Brown toes curl
down around rocks and roots
searching for grip.
In the mud is hidden stability,
safety in the placement of the foot,
if you know how.

I follow the brown feet in front
their advice is sound
my toes curl like his,
feeling each root's bark,
each stone's edges and curves.

When you walk with the brain
your feet move without you
and you fall in the mud
or trip on a root.

When you walk with your feet
you do not fall
because they are the wiser guide.
let them lead and the body will follow.

After that comes the mind:
an acceptance of the reality,
a trust.
with each jabbing pain of rock or thorn
your feet learn and grow stronger.

I watch the brown feet
ahead of me.
i wish they were mine,
calloused and wise.
they grip roots and rocks,
like a monkey.
and they caress the earth like a lover.
i feel that, in mine too,
my feet send down their own roots
deep into the soil.

With the rich ground beneath my feet:
i had communion."

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Spider Woman taught me a new phrase in Thai, which I would like to transmit to all my friends around the world, whether old friends at home, relatives, or new friends I have met on this unforgettable voyage:
"PEU-UN DRAT." It means, "I love you, friend.' It's distinct from what you'd say to a lover. I think it's a good idea to have a seperate phrase for friend and lover; the whole thing is very muddled in our society, and we really do lack a proper range of vocabulary to describe love. When we left, Spider Woman told me this phrase. I know I have a good friend in her; she has a very big heart. One day, I will visit her family again. And I will never forget "Belly-Man", her brother who always wore only a towel and continually rubbed his bare belly. We saw him only once in a shirt, but that came off a minute later. It's strange because Thai's are very conservative about bare skin on either sex; I guess he really likes people to see his belly. Khao Sok national park is very close to my heart now. I know I'll go back one day.

Now we go north to Bangkok for a few days.



Thursday, 1 February, 2001:
CHIANG MAI, THAILAND (North)

Last week, we spent two days in Bangkok, visiting the Grand Palace and the nearby Wat Pho, both of which were really amazing. My highlight was the latter, a temple which houses what may be the longest reclining Buddha image in the world. Allan called it the "lounging" Buddha; I suppose he did have a relaxed expression on his face. I find the proportions of Buddha statues here very interesting, because they are somewhat out of proportion (the arms are too long, the head too large, and the fingers bend the wrong way)... and yet, the statues are so well balanced. I wonder if they wouldn't look as beautiful if the proportions were more normal. I love the graceful curves and femininity of the art here.

We took a walk down the famous Khao San road in Bangkok, which is well known as a place where tourists go. It was really fun to be like tourists watching the tourists. It makes you realize how silly we look to the Thais.

We caught a 9 hour, 3rd class, non air-conditioned train north to Phitsanlok, where we transfered to Sukhothai, ancient capital of the Thai kingdom. We had been warned that this was an aweful, hot, and uncomfortable way to travel. Perhaps so, if done in excess. However, I think it was a highlight of the trip. Turns out, we were apparently the only people who did the entire journey, and for most of the trip we had the entire car to ourselves. The central Thai scenery was beautiful, and going through all the remote towns was fun - we'd hang out the open train doors as we drove through and wave to and be waved at by all the locals.

We spent three relaxing days visiting the ca. 12th century ruins at Sukhothai. Instead of trying to see it all, we saw enough, and spent much of our time reading or just sitting beneath trees, in the shadow of the ancient temples. It was a very serene atmosphere, with lots of lakes and moats, and graceful bell-shaped chedis, Buddhist structures rich in symbolism.

In the new town of Sukhothai was a festival at the time we stayed there, and we walked around the festival market in the evenings. As we walked past a vending stall, some bowls of brown things caught my eye and I did a double take: BUGS! Bowls of apparently fried insects! With great enthusiasm I called ahead to Allan, and showed him the table. We exchanged an excited look and the next thing we knew, we were sharing a little baggie of mixed insects (we asked for a selection: grubs, caterpillars, small grasshoppers and beetles). Gross as it sounds, some of them were quite tasty, like any old fried snack food. What an experience. Allan and I are agreed that the little grasshoppers (with big eyes) were the best, for texture and flavour.

In Chiang Mai, I'm hoping to meet a human rights and environment group called Earth Rights International, who I discovered on the internet and am very excited about. They have an office in Seattle, which I'd like to visit as well.

Our wet passports (see Ko Jam entries, below) have really begun to cause problems, as the Indian consulate refuses to recognize them because of stains. We have to apply for new ones. To get to the Canadian Consulate in Chiang Mai, Allan and I had to cross a 16-lane "Super-Highway", dodging high-speed traffic. That's the one thing that sticks out to me about Chiang Mai: crossing the road. The crosswalks are useless because nobody stops; and every time we've crossed the road, it's always been quite a narrow escape from becoming roadkill. We always laugh about it; there's something comical about the fact that not once have we seen a single Thai crossing the troublesome roads here. How do they do it?...



Sunday, 18 February, 2001:
WAT SUAN MOKH, THAILAND (South)

I'm so far behind I don't know where to start. I guess I have just been so active that I forgot to update my site.

Back a few weeks. From Chiang Mai, we went on a trek west of the city, for three days. It was a really great three days. Our guide was named Mr. Green (everyone has nicknames here), and he was a very fun guy. We stayed in two hill-tribe villages - Hmong and Karen ethnic groups. I was really worried about this beforehand, as I try to be sensitive to the pretty-much universal destruction of indigenous culture by our culture. I was prepared to become very angry if I found a Coke machine for us in these remote hill villages. However, it was not a conscience-testing experience for me, because we really respected their culture and just passed through. There were animals everywhere - roosters, pigs, and dogs - as well as lots and lots of kids. We played with the kids. They don't have toys - they play with old tires, sticks, and empty garbage cans. (Hey, toys that last for a LONG time!). On the third day, we rode down a small river on bamboo rafts, which were partially submerged under water! Very relaxing.

The wet passport incident has turned out to be quite complicated. Not only did I have to make a 9-hour day trip down to Bangkok, I have to miss my flight to India. So Allan is now in India and I am still in Thailand. Go figure.

There is a reason for everything, though. In the Bangkok library, I found only one book in English. The pictures were of a beautiful, peaceful monastery called Wat Suan Mokh, which means "Garden of Liberation". On the spur of the moment, I decided to stay there until my flight to India next Friday. The monastery is a modern forest monastery, and is like a Buddhist playground, with ample and diverse opportunities to seek enlightenment. After all, that is what Buddhism is supposed to be about - seeking your own answers. The teachings of the Buddha are merely hints, suggestions based on his spiritual experiences. In fact, Buddha's lasts words were: "You are your own refuge. Seek your own salvation with dilligence." This monastery was founded by a renouned monk named Buddhadhasa, who was an iconoclast and non-conformist, who preached that the different religions were in essence the same, and that they should join together to combat the power of materialism. This week, we are learning from a German monk, Pra Santi. He is a very compassionate, big-hearted person. The food here is great too. I will be here until Tuesday, when I travel back to Bangkok.



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